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Wedding Light: Specs That Matter and Specs That Don't

Specs explained 2 min read

The numbers on a wedding light datasheet are all true and not all useful. Some describe the lamp, some describe the power bill, and one or two describe what you will actually see.

Read the sheet in the order it is installed

Nothing on a spec sheet is dishonest; plenty of it is irrelevant. A wedding light sheet will quote lumen output, power draw and beam angle, but what you need is image width at your throw distance and contrast against the light already on the surface. Those require two more numbers the sheet usually does not give you, which is why they are worth asking for.

Lumens, watts and what reaches the wall

Wattage tells you the running cost, not the result. Two wedding light models at the same wattage can differ by 30% at the wall because of lens efficiency and LED binning. What you actually care about is contrast: the image needs to be meaningfully brighter than the surface it lands on, and that is a lux comparison, not a lumen one.

Throw distance and image size

The useful specification is the throw ratio, or failing that a distance-to-image-width table. On a typical wedding light covering 3–12 m, the zoom lens might take the image from roughly 0.8 m wide at the near end to 3 m at the far end. Once you know the width you need, the throw tells you where the bracket goes — not the other way round.

ThrowTypical image widthPractical note
Short, around 3 m0.5 – 1.5 mBright and easy — most indoor work
Mid, around 12 m1.5 – 3 mWhere lens quality starts to matter
Long, beyond 12 m3 m and upContrast fails before reach does

The optical spec most sheets leave out

Two numbers govern the image: gobo image area and the resolution the lens can carry. Glass gobos can be engraved far finer than any wedding light lens in this class will resolve, so the practical limit is optical. That is worth knowing before you pay for engraving detail nobody will see from 10 m away.

The compliance block

Ratings age. A wedding light that left the factory rated IP20 can lose that rating the first time somebody opens it to change a gobo and reseats the gasket badly. Look for a design where routine access does not mean breaking the environmental seal, or accept that the rating applies to the unit as delivered, not as maintained.

Questions worth asking the supplier

Four questions separate a supplier who knows the product from one reading a sheet. What is the image width at my throw distance? What is the gobo image area? Is the IP20 rating for the housing alone or the whole assembly? And what is the lead time on a replacement gobo? A good supplier answers all four in one reply.

Common questions

How much power does a wedding light need?

It depends on the ambient light rather than the distance alone. For a controlled indoor surface the lower end of the 20–80 W range is usually enough; against a lit shop window or a facade at dusk you want the upper end. Measure the light already falling on the surface before ordering, because that number decides it.

Can the image be changed later?

That is the advantage over permanent signage — the message changes without touching the building. Keep the artwork file and the gobo reference and a changeover is a formality rather than a project.

What surface works best?

Matte and light-coloured, square to the beam. Glossy surfaces reflect the light away from the viewer and dark ones absorb it; both cost you contrast that no amount of extra wattage recovers cheaply. If the surface is fixed, reduce the image size instead.

Related products

Need help specifying this?

Send us the throw distance, the image size you need and your artwork — we will recommend the right model and quote within 24 hours.

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