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Long Throw Gobo Projector Installation: Position, Focus and Handover

Installation 2 min read

Installation is where a good long throw gobo projector becomes a good result, or does not. Everything below is ordered the way the job should actually be done.

What to check on the first visit

The three survey failures are power, surface and access. No socket within reach, a target surface that is glossy or patterned, and a mounting point that needs scaffolding to reach — any of these turns an one-hour long throw gobo projector install into a two-visit job. All three are visible in ten minutes on site.

Mounting height and bracket choice

Choose the bracket before the fixture. A long throw gobo projector needs to hold its aim through thermal cycles and, outdoors, through wind loading; a lightweight bracket that drifts a degree will put the image off-target within a month. Use a bracket rated above the fixture weight, and if the install is exposed, check the fixings are stainless.

  • Bracket rated above the fixture weight
  • Stainless fixings for exposed positions
  • Beam as close to perpendicular as the site allows
  • Position reachable without powered access

Aiming, zooming and focusing

Focus on the centre, then check the edges. A long throw gobo projector focused on a flat wall should read evenly corner to corner; if it does not, the usual cause is an angled mount rather than a bad lens. Once you are happy, lock the focus if the unit allows it, because vibration and thermal cycling will otherwise move it over a season.

Power, cable routing and switching

Route the cable as if somebody will try to unplug it, because somebody will. Use a switched, protected supply, keep the run out of reach where possible, and make sure the connection point is accessible for service without dismantling the long throw gobo projector. If the install is outdoors, the cable entry — not the housing — is the most likely place for water to get in.

  • Fixed, switched, protected supply
  • Cable gland rated for the environment, fitted with a drip loop
  • Run out of reach and out of the cleaning route
  • Connection point accessible without dismantling the unit

Test it the way it will be used

Before you leave site, run the unit for an hour and check the housing temperature. Thermal problems on a long throw gobo projector rarely show up in the first ten minutes, and a unit that cuts out at 90 minutes will be a callback you could have caught on install day.

Handover notes worth leaving behind

The handover note should include the artwork file reference and the supplier's reorder code. Custom gobos are the one part of a long throw gobo projector install that cannot be improvised on site, and re-cutting from the original file is far cheaper than redrawing it.

  1. Installed throw distance and image size
  2. Gobo size and reference code
  3. Lens settings
  4. Reorder contact and lead time

Common questions

Is a long throw gobo projector suitable for outdoor use?

Yes, if it is specified for it. IP67 covers the housing against driving rain, but the bracket, the gland and the finish are what fail first on an exposed install. Ask what the rating covers before you assume it covers the assembly.

How much power does a long throw gobo projector need?

Start from the ambient light. A dim interior needs very little; a stadium elevation at the working hour may need the top of the 100–400 W range. Increasing image size costs more output than most buyers expect, so fix the size first, then the power.

What surface works best?

A matte, light-coloured, flat surface square to the beam. Textured or glossy walls scatter the image and patterned ones compete with it. Where the surface cannot be changed, a smaller image is the effective fix.

Related products

Need help specifying this?

Send us the throw distance, the image size you need and your artwork — we will recommend the right model and quote within 24 hours.

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